Marlene de Noronha Meneses speaks about her famed Pastéis de Nata and bringing this Portuguese dessert to Goa
Pastéis de Nata, the famed Portuguese custard tarts, was created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Hieronymites Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) in the civil parish of Saint Mary of Bethlehem or Belém, in Lisbon. At that time, convents and monasteries used large quantities of egg-whites for starching clothes, such as friars and nuns’ religious habits. It was quite common for monasteries and convents to use the leftover egg yolks to make cakes and pastries, resulting in the proliferation of sweet pastry recipes throughout the country.
Following the extinction of the religious orders and in the face of the impending closure of many of the convents and monasteries in the aftermath of the Liberal Revolution of 1820, the monks started selling pastéis de nata at a nearby sugar refinery to bring in some revenue. In 1834, the monastery was closed and the recipe was sold to the sugar refinery, whose owners in 1837 opened the Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém. The descendants own the business to this day.
Over time, others tried to imitate them but could not do so. However they went ahead and continued selling them. The original ones continued to be called Pastéis de Belém and all others are Pastéis de Nata.
The pastéis are now made across the country and are available at virtually all cafés and restaurants in Portugal.
In Goa, when one says Pastéis de Nata the name that pops up in everyone’s mind is that of Marlene de Noronha Meneses.
Marlene worked for nearly 15 years at Goa Marriott Resort, major part of it in sales. For the last 1½ years of her tenure there, she worked on a part time basis (only mornings) due to health and other reasons. Even though she had quit, she was offered work on a part time basis to consolidate and increase sales of the ‘social’ sector which she did successfully.
Marlene has been a hobby baker for a long time though this baking was limited to only ‘family cooking’ or at the most parties and events at home. “Since the lockdown I had more free time and therefore decided to use it in order to bring to the people of Goa, a Portuguese delicacy which was appreciated by many when I had baked it for one of my functions at home.”
Marlene elaborates on her reason for zeroing-in on Pastéis de Nata as her specialty. “In 2006, when I visited Portugal, I had my first Pastel de nata and never forgot the taste. I had been searching this dessert but no one seemed to be able to give it to me. I finally decided to take the plunge and make it myself. I requested my close relatives who were coming down from Portugal to bring the moulds as well as the recipe which I experimented a couple of times and then baked them for a function at home. It was well appreciated by all including some who were well travelled and had tried them in Portugal as well as some guests who had come down from Portugal.” Thus she decided to prepare the dessert on a regular basis (on prior orders only) and made it her signature offering.
The process of making this dessert is very time consuming and tedious as the dough is to be kneaded, prepared independently and the custard filling made separately, but they are baked together! Marlene says, “Getting the consistencies of both right is the challenge but I am now beginning to master that part!”
Marlene has received an excellent response from her customers. “The response is very satisfying especially when I get appreciated by the Portuguese who have come down to Goa or by persons who have travelled to Portugal and have tasted the Pastéis there!” she adds.
Marlene goes on to speak about her customers and the outlets she supplies to. “Over a period of time, I have developed a good social connect and this has helped me reach out! I am happy to have a varied clientele and from many parts of Goa. There are those who have travelled and have eaten them before as well as first time eaters of the Pastéis which are quite a few!” Marlene has started delivering to select pre-determined points in North Goa on Wednesdays and to South Goa on Saturdays (both evenings).
Before the lockdown a few outlets/cafés used to stock the Pastéis but due to lock down they have stopped. At present only Caravela Café and Bistro at Panjim stocks them.
Marlene opines on the rise of home bakers making pastéis de nata especially during the lockdown given that it was literally unheard of a few a few months back. “It is very good that more people are making pastéis now. That way many more people will be able to eat this fantastic delicacy.”
Speaking about her future plans Marlene says that she has started a venture called Marlene’s Tasty Treats in addition to the Pastéis de Nata. “I have just introduced Empadinhas (Pies) and jam tarts which are made using old Goan family recipes. My idea is to bring to the table, food that is otherwise not available in Goa, on a regular basis.”
Marlene signs off with a few words of advice to aspiring bakers and dessert specialists. “Listen to what the people want and act accordingly…be unique! Always accept and be ready to take feedback whether it is good, bad or ugly… only then will you succeed”
